Casting is a process in where a solution(usually mixed with a curing agent, or hardener) is poured into a desired mold and then left to set and become a solid, which gives you the desired structure. This process is thousands of years old, and comes in many different forms. Examples of casting are metal casting (or metalwork), glass casting, resin casting and many others. Literally anything you can pour into a mold which becomes solid is considered to be in the art form of 'Casting'. It's regarded as a diverse practice, so no one can really define a specific cast, it's usually up to the artist to use a preferred or specific cast to get the most desirable results.
So what do I need?
It depends on what you want to make exactly. There are so many different types of casting resins and solutions you can use to give you different desired effects. Today however, I am going to show you how to work with a polyester resin and a silicone mold. The example product I will be casting is from Bethesda's Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim, a Dragon Priest Mask.
The materials I have used are as followed...
For the paper mask;
Papercard. (Just thicker paper than normal.)
Copydex Adhesive.
Sellotape.
Crafting knife and mat.
Glue stick (Because you never know!)
2 sheets of rubber foam.
For the cast;
Spray Paint - It usually doesn't matter which one, but this will prevent the lacquer from penetrating the paper and ruining it.
Clear Lacquer - Please get this in spray, as it applies a nice even coat, unless preferred otherwise.
Liquid Silicone Rubber - with curing agent.
Polyester Casting Resin - with hardener.
Finally... Safety First.
Presuming that you guys will not buy more dangerous products to begin with, such as Rondo or Fiberglass Resin. I still highly suggest that you put safety first, and use safety gear such as gloves and a mask, especially when casting. A well ventilated environment for hard sprays and the cast and last but not least, patience. It WILL take some time to let a lot of the used materials to set, especially the mold and the resin. the only silicone rubber I could find recently, recommends that I leave the mold to set for several days before I cast, so don't be surprised if the product you are using will say the same thing.
Creating the basic structure.
Depending on what you want to make, will depend on what you will use to construct the base, which will be replicated by the mold and the casting material. I'll be using a thick craft paper to get the initial base structure of the mask, which I will be folding together.
I'd suggest start with something simple, so you learn yourself how the materials and solutions work.
The design I am using is just for this article, so I have used a free-to-use design from Pepakura which also has a lot of really cool designs for crafting with paper. You can find
Pepakura Designer here.
I'm using about 10 pages of thick crafting paper, which is printer friendly because this is what I am going to use to form the shape of the mask. It is crucial that you are 100% satisfied with the structure before you cast, because any imperfections will obviously be replicated onto the final design.
Typical casters may sculpt their designs with clay or wood, or even build it together with other materials, such as rubber foam, Styrofoam, paper or card(board). It's really interesting playing with these different materials to get the best techniques available.
I added some cut outs from rubber foam sheets for an extra dimension.Once you have finished your initial design, it's time to mold! It's usually a good idea to seal the base design with something so that the different materials you may have used, will not stick to the molding solution when you are applying it. I spray painted my paper mask white, and finished it with a few coats of clear lacquer, which also helps make the mask more sturdy and hard, so it is easy to work with when I apply the silicone.
Creating the mold.
The mold I am using is called 'liquid silicone rubber', so it's the cheapest and most practical method for the use of a design like this, since it is made of paper after all. I don't want to use the silicone used for impressing, as that would damage the paper mask. I started off by mixing half of the liquid silicone and half of the curing agent and applied it straight away all over the mask,(with an inexpensive nylon paintbrush) deep into the crevices so that all the details are picked up, I then mixed the rest of the silicone and curing agent, and let it set for 1 hour, so it is more like a gum, which I then apply on top of the first layer of silicon, so we have quite a thick layer that is not dripping off the edge because we let it cure briefly. I then leave to set for 16 - 24 hours as instructed on the tin. (Be wary that whatever mold that you use, always follow the instructions and take note of the curing and setting times of the mold, so that the best practice is applicable.)
Tip: Nervous about the silicone literally sticking to the base structure and tearing it apart? Usually, most materials won't stick, but you could always brush on a little dusting of talc before slapping on the mold for an extra precaution, even it you aren't nervous, it won't have any ill effects.
Note: When first mixed with the curing agent, silicone has the consistency of PVA glue, which then starts to become thicker and gradually setting 20 - 24 hours later, the latest time you are advised to use it is less than 2, otherwise it is completely unmanageable.
Also please be aware that if you apply all of the silicone straight away, it will all start to drip down the sides and rough corners will petrude through, so using the rest of the silicone when it has cured to a liquid chewing gum like consistency. It will stay in place and not drip and reveal the original structure. (about 1 - 2 hours curing time)
I highly suggest that any base structure you have is free of unwanted nooks and crannies, because the silicone will seep through. This can be removed later on, but it is a pain in the backside, and you risk damaging the mold. When you are happy with the mold setting, firmly, but carefully peel the mold away from the base structure, remove any unwanted flaps of silicon that may have formed until you are happy and you are ready to cast! I've made slight mistakes on this particular molding process, it really is important that you lay the silicone on THICK, so that you can't even make out the original design, this is very important because the mold needs to be able to support the weight and contain the unmixed liquid resin.
The Cast
The casting is pretty simple, but I must insist you thoroughly read the instructions given with the resin, or cast that you have got, they are all different and I can only give you guide examples with the particular cast I am using. The instructions I have are, 'In a well ventilated area, mix 1 - 3% hardener with the resin and mix well with a 'stick', then let it rest for 5 minutes to disperse of any bubbles caused by mixing' curing time 130 - 150 minutes, and eventually a solid block 4 - 6 hours.' - With this I added a little bit of resin colouring, jet black so that it isn't clear so I can see where I can sand it down later on. Please be aware that the instructions with the resin are only a guide, so use your own judgement when it comes to curing times, see the next step.
NOTE: as soon as the hardener has been mixed in and set to rest for 5 minutes, please work quickly and never leave unattended, before you know it, the cast will turn from a syrup, into a gel, then eventually a hard gel like consistency, so if you don't spread the resin around the entire mold before that final consistency happens, you will have some major problems with the finished cast. The amount of hardener you add, will effect the amount of time the resin will cure, so be careful!
Okay so, by now, you are probably wondering how on earth to manage this mold, it's floppy and doesn't retain shape. Most molds are usually already set in shape with smaller casts, but larger ones are difficult to manage, as it would be pretty pricey to buy so much silicone to create a firm mold. But all I can suggest is, when poured into the mold, use support stand of container to keep the basic shape and keep checking it at 20 minute intervals to spread around the resin mix inside the mold. (I'm using a credit card to scrape it all around until it eventually becomes thick enough to line the entire mold. (Please use gloves, you don't really want this stuff on your hands or anywhere near any other part of your body, so work safely. For this particular project, I've used an old shoe box to set the mold in, so it keeps the basic shape. Add the resin in layers, so it is easier to work and eventually you'll have a set cast which is ready to un-mold when it is a firm block.
So after removing the mold, I ca now sand, polish and paint! When it comes to sanding, please be patient because this will require a few hours work, it's a matter of digging into every detail and leveling out any lumps, creases and anomalies in the finished product, but the result is worth it.
Just need to finish with a cool paint design!Overview
So now you have your finished product, so you can design it how you like, I'm going to add a really rustic effect onto my mask and maybe add some more onto it, but that far I haven't decided. If you haven't casted before, I recommend you start with something small and simple, so it is not a great loss if you make a mistake.
What you do with the finished mask is completely up to you. Wear it, sell it, there must be a reason to your initial cast so the next step is for you to decide only.
Here a few articles that may be useful to you, so please check them out!
Introduction to setting up your store by
TaltyArtisan Crafts and copyright law by
cakecrumbsI hope you have enjoyed reading this article, and have fun in your future projects with casting, I hope this article helps.
Credits
Dragon Priest Mask is owned by
Bethesda Softworks, LLC. (c)
This method of casting is what I have used with inspirations of multiple methods I have picked up long the way of my hobby, it works for me so I must insist that you do not redistribute this article or it's images without my permission.
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